Fall 2003 Feature Article:
English Gardening: Peonies
by Cheryl M. English
One of my favorite times in the garden is around the end of May and beginning
of June when the peonies along the weathered wooden fence in my backyard come into bloom. Just walking within a couple yards of them provides a veritable cloud of perfumed air, which is easily transferred into any room of my house with a simple bouquet of cut flowers.
Most folks don't realize that there are two groups of peonies, the more common herbaceous form that dies back every fall and the woody tree peony that provides structural interest to your garden regardless of the season. I'm not as familiar with tree peonies - they have much less scent (if any at all) than the herbaceous form, and I happen to like a garden that appeals not only to the visual but the olfactory and tactile senses. This does not mean you might not want to consider a tree peony for your garden; they come in a wider range of colors than the herbaceous form and are very attractive plants in their own right.
Herbaceous vs. Woody
As with clematis, there are both herbaceous and woody plants referred to as peonies. All known as Paeonia, they consist of 30 or more species of clump-forming herbaceous perennials and deciduous shrubs. The species are native to meadow, scrub and rocky areas from Europe to East Asia, as well as North America. Most of the species and cultivars are of the herbaceous form, with tuberous rootstocks that, properly done in the right season, can be divided when the clumps become too large. Most of these are derived from Paeonia lactiflora and bloom, as indicated, in late spring to early summer. Tree peonies (generally derived from Paeonia suffructicosa) have rather supine branches and bloom a little earlier, from mid- to late spring, and generally should not be transplanted once established.
Most of the herbaceous forms have single, semi-double and double flowers in colors generally ranging from white to pinks to deep reds, frequently with yellow stamens (if visible; double forms have very few stamens, hidden among the petals). The tree forms come in the same range of colors, as well as having several varieties with yellow or purplish flowers. I generally prefer the more traditional single flower varieties for my herbaceous peonies (I'm the same about my hollyhocks), but most of the rest of the gardening world seems to prefer the semi-double or double varieties, as those are more commonly available. If you want to acquire some of the less common varieties and have access to the Internet, definitely undertake a search. As with most common garden plant species, there are many suppliers and organizations specializing in peonies and there you can find the less common varieties to round out your collection. (You might start at the Heartland Peony Society, at http://www.peonies.org.)
General Culture
Because I, at least for the time being, have little experience of tree peonies and they are not as commonly cultivated in the home garden, I'm going to concentrate on culture for the herbaceous varieties. Herbaceous peonies are not that difficult to grow and maintain and, with a few simple tricks and tips, you can have an absolutely glorious display in your late spring/early summer garden.
Keep in mind that peonies, like so many other common garden perennials, like sun. They like a lot of it. So you want to make sure your peonies get at least six to eight hours of sun per day. (Even a slight difference in location can have an impact on your plants: The peonies in my garden that get just a little bit more shade because of the shadows cast by adjacent buildings are always a little bit "behind" the rest of the gang. But don't worry too much about minor variations - your peonies will still be happy and bloom profusely.) Peonies (and we're talking about the herbaceous forms here, remember) die back to the ground every Autumn, sending up shoots again in the Spring. The old foliage won't really come off very easily, and it can tend to look pretty ragged as winter progresses. For the sake of tidiness, I tend to cut it back before winter really sets in.
Come spring, when the shoots start to appear, it's a very good idea to head out to your nearest garden shop and pick up what are called (get this) "Peony Rings". These consist of a plastic-coated circular wire frame with three free-moving legs. The key here is to look for the type that has a square grid within the circular frame. The idea is to locate these over your peonies before they get very tall (I usually end up being a little late, if I'm going to be absolutely honest!) and raising the rings as the plants get taller. This way, when your lush peonies bloom, the weight of the blossoms (and that can be a considerable weight, especially for a happy, vigorous double-flowering variety such as 'Sarah Bernhardt' [pale pink] or 'Festiva Maxima' [white with the occasional red mark]) will be borne by the peony ring, preventing (at least somewhat) the terrible after-rainfall vision of peonies prone on the ground, never to be revived. It's likely that you'll lose a few no matter how assiduously you tend them, but any minimization is well rewarded.
After blooming, many varieties bear colorful seedpods. I tend to cut these back so the plant can put more energy into the root system, but do as you wish. Peonies prefer a high-phosphorus fertilizer in early spring. Other than that, make sure the soil is well drained and water deeply at least once a week. (Occasional short watering sessions are not as effective, generally speaking, as less frequent thorough watering. "Deep" watering encourages deeper root development, leading to greater resilience during periods of water stress; shallowly-watered plants don't develop the deeper roots that can carry them through a brief dry spell.)
Dividing Your Peonies For Even More Pleasure
If your peonies are getting too large and you wish to divide them, you should do so with considerable care, as they are very slow to reestablish. The best time to divide peonies is in fall; if you divide peonies in spring, even formerly established plants may not bloom until the next year or two.
To divide, lift (preferably with a planting fork or spade) the plants toward the end of summer - September would be a good time to divide your peonies. At this time, the swelling growth buds for next year's growth are clearly visible. After lifting, the plant's crown should be cut into sections, each with at least a few buds, taking care not to damage the thick, tuber-like roots. All cut surfaces should be treated with a fungicide to discourage the onset of disease or rot. Plant the divided sections approximately eight inches apart, with the buds one to three inches deep. (If you plant them too deeply, the plant may not flower; if too shallowly, they may dry out, and will not mature.) Water thoroughly, and maintain a mulch of at least one inch throughout the year. Peonies take a long time to establish. You will see the leaves the next season, but it may take a couple years for the plant to develop sufficiently to support flower production.
Final Thoughts
Even after blooming, the foliage of herbaceous peonies can provide a wonderful backdrop for later-blooming flowers in your garden, making them an ideal plant for the rear of your garden to offset your border plantings. Easily reaching three-feet and retaining their rich green foliage into the fall, they can be planted as a hedge, as well. I especially like the effect I've achieved in my garden, with my peonies against the fence I've put in across my yard and the oriental poppies blooming beyond it, creating a wonderful sense of foreground, middle-ground and background. Dividing your peonies not only provides you with more plants for your own garden; they also provide the opportunity of sharing your bounty with others. My favorite plants are those I have received from friends and loved ones; they always bring back fond memories of those special people.
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